For the past several years the buzz word for not only your health but for the health of your skin has been antioxidants. As far a marketing goes, this one word holds more power than almost any other, promising to defend against aging and environmental stressors, and not only halting but reversing the damage due to these factors.

Here is my assessment of claims vs. hype when it comes to antioxidants and skin care:

1. The reason we know about antioxidants is marketing.

The sources of antioxidants are abundant, from blueberries, acai, sea buckthorn, pomegranate and goji, I can almost guarantee the next antioxidant wonder fruit will be a multi-syllabic extremely rare berry which was miraculously discovered and preserved in the entrails of a prehistoric woolly mammoth that was chipped out a Siberian glacier.

2. Loads of big claims, maybe not so much good science to back it up.

Kidding aside, the trend follows that the higher the concentration or potency, and the rarity and exotic location of origin add to an antioxidants value and benefits. While I absolutely believe that antioxidants like Vitamin C and A are of value, there is a need to question their efficacy as well. Asking if these antioxidants can actually penetrate into the skin cells to do what they say they can do. Due to poor formulations, oxidation and absorption issues, many skin care products with antioxidants may do nothing but just sit on the surface. Maybe no harm done, but no good accomplished either. Marketing hype wins, consumer gets zero.

As an example, the antioxidant Vitamin C can both protect skin from the sun and neutralize free radicals. It effectively promotes collagen production and tones and tightens the skin to help repair the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It has also been proven to reduce skin discoloration due to sun damage, aging, and acne scarring. Vitamin C is very unstable and can easily oxidize, making the compound ineffective, so it’s important to pay attention to expiration dates and that it is being stored in air and light-free containers. According to the SkinCeuticals site, 15% is the optimum potency of  deliverable Vitamin C to receive the desired benefits from its use.

3. “Just because a food has antioxidants doesn’t mean we should eat it (or slather it on our skin!).” – Kevin @ RenegadeHealth

The presence of antioxidants isn’t the only factor in deciding what to place on our skin. I always look for specific active ingredients before purchasing a product. The first on the list are the ingredients in the highest percentage, just because an antioxidant is listed, doesn’t mean there is enough for it to anything. Depending upon the specific skin care product, if I want one with an particular antioxidant benefit, I will want to make sure it has the proper potency. Liposomes or chirally correct formulations (like L-Ascorbic Acid or D-Beta Carotene) are used to assist the active ingredients ability to be delivered deeper into the skin and be recognized and utilized by the skin’s receptor cells.

Conclusion of is it good or good hype? A little of both. The next time you go skin care shopping, consider these 3 points (along with the price tag of course) when you hear or read the word antioxidant listed as a selling point. Please share your thoughts!

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