Are you blocking the UVA?

While we have all heard of the benefits from using a daily sunscreen (anti-aging, avoiding skin damage and cancer), it is good to note that not all sunscreens are created equal. Many sunscreens are good at blocking the long UVB rays, however most do very little to block the damaging short UVA rays.

Ingredients that absorb UVA/UVB rays, such as avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, are known as absorbers or chemical based sunscreens. In contrast, physical blockers of UV radiation have ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

In a recent post from SkinTour.com “Are You Blocking UVA, Too?” Dr. Brandith Irwin explains,

“Remember that SPF refers only to UVB protection and doesn’t help you on UVA. And buying a sunscreen that says “broad spectrum” or “UVA Protection” won’t necessarily protect you much. Some of those have only a tiny amount of zinc or titanium for UVA blocking.”

To read her entire article including a list of affordable UVA sunscreens for the body and face, go to: http://www.skintour.com/tips/Are-You-Blocking-UVA-Too-.html.

Hi all! Feeling pretty psyched right now, just got word from SkinMedica that I can give away two of my favorite items from their line – no kidding!

If you are looking for a great retinoid product, the SkinMedica Tri-Retinol Complex is a highly recommended “non-perscription” retinoid that delivers anti-aging benefits without irritating your skin.

And, if you have always wanted to try the SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum, but were frightened by the price tag ($271 – yikes!), we are giving away one of those too. This product contains two chambers, one filled with proteins, antioxidants, and amino acids, and the other with the TNS Corrective Complex. It works over time to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation while improving elasticity.

This contest runs through Friday April 22, 2011, so be sure to enter!

For the past several years the buzz word for not only your health but for the health of your skin has been antioxidants. As far a marketing goes, this one word holds more power than almost any other, promising to defend against aging and environmental stressors, and not only halting but reversing the damage due to these factors.

Here is my assessment of claims vs. hype when it comes to antioxidants and skin care:

1. The reason we know about antioxidants is marketing.

The sources of antioxidants are abundant, from blueberries, acai, sea buckthorn, pomegranate and goji, I can almost guarantee the next antioxidant wonder fruit will be a multi-syllabic extremely rare berry which was miraculously discovered and preserved in the entrails of a prehistoric woolly mammoth that was chipped out a Siberian glacier.

2. Loads of big claims, maybe not so much good science to back it up.

Kidding aside, the trend follows that the higher the concentration or potency, and the rarity and exotic location of origin add to an antioxidants value and benefits. While I absolutely believe that antioxidants like Vitamin C and A are of value, there is a need to question their efficacy as well. Asking if these antioxidants can actually penetrate into the skin cells to do what they say they can do. Due to poor formulations, oxidation and absorption issues, many skin care products with antioxidants may do nothing but just sit on the surface. Maybe no harm done, but no good accomplished either. Marketing hype wins, consumer gets zero.

As an example, the antioxidant Vitamin C can both protect skin from the sun and neutralize free radicals. It effectively promotes collagen production and tones and tightens the skin to help repair the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It has also been proven to reduce skin discoloration due to sun damage, aging, and acne scarring. Vitamin C is very unstable and can easily oxidize, making the compound ineffective, so it’s important to pay attention to expiration dates and that it is being stored in air and light-free containers. According to the SkinCeuticals site, 15% is the optimum potency of  deliverable Vitamin C to receive the desired benefits from its use.

3. “Just because a food has antioxidants doesn’t mean we should eat it (or slather it on our skin!).” – Kevin @ RenegadeHealth

The presence of antioxidants isn’t the only factor in deciding what to place on our skin. I always look for specific active ingredients before purchasing a product. The first on the list are the ingredients in the highest percentage, just because an antioxidant is listed, doesn’t mean there is enough for it to anything. Depending upon the specific skin care product, if I want one with an particular antioxidant benefit, I will want to make sure it has the proper potency. Liposomes or chirally correct formulations (like L-Ascorbic Acid or D-Beta Carotene) are used to assist the active ingredients ability to be delivered deeper into the skin and be recognized and utilized by the skin’s receptor cells.

Conclusion of is it good or good hype? A little of both. The next time you go skin care shopping, consider these 3 points (along with the price tag of course) when you hear or read the word antioxidant listed as a selling point. Please share your thoughts!

For the treatment of acne and aging, retinols are often recommended and considered a highly valued skin repair treatment.  A cousin of Vitamin A, the main benefits of retinoids are that they stimulate collagen production and increase the cell turnover rate which decreases with age, combating both wrinkles and congested skin. Retinoids have also been scientifically proven to help to repair sun damage by normalizing damaged keratinocytes (skin cells). With such claims you might think that everyone would be slathering it on without abandon, however as we all well know, every good thing has a few drawbacks, particularly if you have sensitive skin.

Side Effects of Prescription Strength (Rx) Retin-A:

• Increased skin cell turnover can be irritating and cause flaking and redness. The key is, easy does it! A little goes a long way, and you want to build up using it gradually, even every other day at first.  If you are experiencing flaking or severe irritation, take a few days off, or consult with your Dermatologist.  Another option is to try a lower concentration or a OTC retinol cream that can offer you a similar result – my personal favorite is the Tri-Retinol Complex from SkinMedica. You will also want to use a good moisturizer while using Retin A.
• Increased sun sensitivity. While using retinoids, your skin will become more sensitive to sunlight, so you will want to use a very effective sunscreen, wear a hat, and keep out of the sun to protect your skin.
• Do not use if pregnant, the use of topical retinoids can cause birth defects.
• There is some controversy of the long term side effects Retin-A.

To help clear up some of the confusion and avoid as many negative side effects as possible, Dr. Brandith Irwin, a renowned Dermatologist and contributor for SkinTour wrote up an excellent reference article about the various retinol prescription and non-prescription options, and what will work best for your specific age and skin type.

Vitamin-A creams have been and are still the gold standard for repair of sun-damaged and aging skin. They also help to prevent precancerous lesions and skin cancer. There’s nothing better available in a cream form. Everyone who can tolerate them should be using one!

Still needing more information?  There is a lot more to say on this topic, and here is another post to learn more about Retinoids:  All About Retinoids: Considering Retin-A.

You may ask me,  “Jen, do you ever try a product you don’t love?”

“Uh, yeah.”

I have a big box filled to the brim with various creams, lotions and potions that come my way. I don’t have much patience for a crappy product. I am human just like everyone else, sometimes I’ll get wowed by the marketing, sometimes I get wowed by the packaging or the philosophy behind the product (example: Eminence). However, if I put it on my skin, and it causes a reaction, triggers a break out, and doesn’t feel fantastic – I’m done, good-bye and onto the next new product that captures my attention.

So in 2010 Boske, a fairly new company on the skin care circuit approached me with their all-star product, Molecular Repair. I was having some fairly tough skin issues over the summer, so I made a first attempt and after a few uses,  pushed it to the back of the bathroom cupboard for a future trial. (more…)

As a “slightly obsessed” writer of beauty and skin care, finding solid, informative content about skin care is very exciting news to come by!

A few years ago, I was asked to review a wonderful book about the most current information about anti-aging skin care written by the renowned dermatologist, Dr. Brandith Irwin called, “The Surgery-free Makeover.”  Recently, it has been brought to my attention that Dr. Irwin has developed a skin care information-based web site, which is packed full of skin care advice, solutions, videos, and a ton of information about what’s out there.  SkinTour.com should prove to be an invaluable site for anyone who wants to be a wise consumer and take optimal care of their skin.

Beyond the videos and questionnaires, while at SkinTour.com be sure to take the Anti-Aging Tour which targets areas of the face that are troublespots and gives all the options to solve them according to price, results, & risks. The most honorable aspect of Dr. Irwin’s site is that she has no financial ties with any skin care, cosmetic, or device manufacturer – this gal is the real deal!  I am sure you will be impressed as well.

For the upcoming holidays, Dr. Irwin posted her “Top 100 Skin Care Products for the Holidays.” From acne to the best anti aging skin care, you can search this list and find which products really have the right stuff.

There are no long lines, and it’s completely free – so go ahead and take a SkinTour!

You’ve probably heard a lot about the benefits of a good night’s restorative sleep. And, you’ve probably watched an Oprah episode or two targeting unfit mattresses teaming with dust mites, or bed pillows that are in the most pathetic, lumpy state. How about something that comes even closer to your face? Your pillowcase.

Cleaning aside, have you ever thought about the fabric of your pillowcase? For starters a soft feeling fabric is nice, and something that keeps cool and comfortable against your skin is ideal. A while back I was reading about the benefits of using a satin pillowcase for the hair and skin, (more…)

One of the distinct benefits of working at the airport is that it’s like free market research. I get to see what people carry in their cosmetics cases and what products everybody loves. When a woman has to pick and choose what she’s going to shove in that little one quart bag and what she’s going to toss in the trash, you can tell which items she loves the most because they’re the first ones to get saved. One of the things I started seeing more and more of was the Dermalogica AGE Smart Multivitamin Thermafoliant (say that 3 times fast!), and everyone I asked about it just loved it, so of course it moved to the top of my “must try” list.

I shall not bore you once again by waxing poetic on my love for exfoliants, but let me say that I was so excited to try this that even the $49 price tag didn’t dissuade me. (more…)

I’m sure you have all heard that getting 7 to 8 hours of sleep every night is optimal for your health. Sleep is our bodies’ way of renewing itself and recuperating from the stress and the daily wear and tear of life. I honestly try to get my full 7 to 8 hours, heck, and I’d love 9 if I could manage it, but realistically women have many responsibilities that don’t always stop when the lights go off.  Between pets, kids and toys that spontaneously start *bleeping* in the wee hours, we often don’t get what our bodies need.

I recently received a letter from a busy mother of four even busier children. Becky writes,

Dear Jen,

I have a question for my friend the beauty blogger….what can I do about these puffy, dark eyes that I have? (Thanks in large part, I am sure to my beautiful new daughter! ) Do you have any ideas? I am currently using a Bobbi Brown eye moisturizing cream, but it does not seem to be doing the trick. I’d love any ideas.

I completely understand Becky, the one place that really shows the lack of sleep (and our age) are our eyes. (more…)

First off, my apologies all around for being MIA last week. My husband came home after a little bit of time in the desert and I took some time with my family for a vacation. And while it may have left you feeling unloved my dears, it was certainly worth it when I heard my 2 year old wake in the middle of the night and call for her daddy to comfort her.

So now onto the stuff you really care about, this weeks product review!
Chella Professional Skin Care is one of those companies that has somehow managed to fly under my radar for way too long. Focusing solely on their dedication to charities it’s a company I can support, but there are plenty of other reasons to try these products as well. Lots of research and plenty of proven botanical ingredients certainly don’t hurt.

With oily, blemish prone skin I have occasion to use clay masks on a regular basis. They’re great for drawing out impurities and helping to clear my skin during the most troublesome of breakouts. However, they also have a tendency to be very drying and can be too harsh for sensitive or delicate skin types, and sometimes even oily skin. Chella’s Balancing Clay Mask (more…)