For the treatment of acne and aging, retinols are often recommended and considered a highly valued skin repair treatment.  A cousin of Vitamin A, the main benefits of retinoids are that they stimulate collagen production and increase the cell turnover rate which decreases with age, combating both wrinkles and congested skin. Retinoids have also been scientifically proven to help to repair sun damage by normalizing damaged keratinocytes (skin cells). With such claims you might think that everyone would be slathering it on without abandon, however as we all well know, every good thing has a few drawbacks, particularly if you have sensitive skin.

Side Effects of Prescription Strength (Rx) Retin-A:

• Increased skin cell turnover can be irritating and cause flaking and redness. The key is, easy does it! A little goes a long way, and you want to build up using it gradually, even every other day at first.  If you are experiencing flaking or severe irritation, take a few days off, or consult with your Dermatologist.  Another option is to try a lower concentration or a OTC retinol cream that can offer you a similar result – my personal favorite is the Tri-Retinol Complex from SkinMedica. You will also want to use a good moisturizer while using Retin A.
• Increased sun sensitivity. While using retinoids, your skin will become more sensitive to sunlight, so you will want to use a very effective sunscreen, wear a hat, and keep out of the sun to protect your skin.
• Do not use if pregnant, the use of topical retinoids can cause birth defects.
• There is some controversy of the long term side effects Retin-A.

To help clear up some of the confusion and avoid as many negative side effects as possible, Dr. Brandith Irwin, a renowned Dermatologist and contributor for SkinTour wrote up an excellent reference article about the various retinol prescription and non-prescription options, and what will work best for your specific age and skin type.

Vitamin-A creams have been and are still the gold standard for repair of sun-damaged and aging skin. They also help to prevent precancerous lesions and skin cancer. There’s nothing better available in a cream form. Everyone who can tolerate them should be using one!

Still needing more information?  There is a lot more to say on this topic, and here is another post to learn more about Retinoids:  All About Retinoids: Considering Retin-A.

For the past 7 months, I have been using prescription strength Retin-A.

Retin-A , Renova and/or Generic Tretinoin Cream is an emollient and is much less harsh than what I tried as a teenager. I have read that every person over 30 can benefit from using Retin-A. That is unless you are pregnant.

After mentioning using Retin-A in a recent post, Marilyn made the comment:

“I used Retinoids in my 40’s – they are great – but insurance companies are extremely hesitant to cover the prescription products (Retin A comes to mind), which from my experience, give the best results. Stupid insurance companies.” (more…)

Val is asking:

Does anyone else have problems with sunscreen breakouts?   I believe I have used almost every one from cheap to very expensive and all types and always end up with one bump that takes weeks to go away.

We all are aware that we need to wear a daily SPF on our face and neck to avoid the damaging effects of the sun.  Further more, we need to be hyper-vigilant about using sunscreen while using retinoids, or after using facial skincare products with BHA or AHA’s.   Even so, sometimes there are reasons one will hesitate using a facial sunscreen. 

Excuses I have made that justify not using a daily facial sunscreen: 

• the smell, many sunscreens have a chemical smell that really bothers me
• the feel, greasy and difficult to use with my existing makeup
• breakout factor, like Val, my skin’s sensitivity to some sunscreen creams can cause breakouts
• the shine, even a little bit of moisture can add to my already summer oily shiny skin
• sting my eyes,  don’t get a sunscreen close to your eyes or you’ll be teary all day long! (more…)

Paula Begoun released a video that accurately describes the difference between AHA’s and BHA and which one is best for your specific skin type. Not all women can tolerate these acid exfoliants, but if you can, these acids can benefit your skin. BTW, no I am not endorsing Paula’s Choice skincare line, but you must admit, Paula’s skin looks incredible in this video. Obviously she is doing something right!

Paula on The Truth About Exfoliants:

The bottom line is that for most skin types exfoliation is a good thing. No question about it. Dead skin cells make your skin feel rough, and if you are over the age of 20 (given the number of adults who have sun damage, clogged pores and dry skin), you would most likely benefit from exfoliation. There are two types of exfoliates : mechanical (or manual) exfoliation, and alphahydroxy acids and betahydroxy acids. The former you have to manually move around your face. They are pretty much ’80s-style exfoliates. I think that form of exfoliation is dated, and I don’t think there is anything in a scrub that can’t be replaced by a washcloth. What does make a difference is a well-formulated betahydroxy or alphahydroxy product. There aren’t many of them around because they are tricky to make and there is a risk of irritation. But much of the objective research out there suggests that exfoliation is good for most skin types.

So as a rule of thumb, AHA’s (which are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid) are for aging, sun damaged skin. BHA or Saylicylic Acid is better for blemish prone, oily or combination skin.

Cleansers that contain AHA’s or BHA are generally not ideal because they are quickly washed off the skin and the skin needs to be able to absorb these acids to be effective.  The best form of AHA’s or BHA’s would be in the form of a moisturizer, treatment, or a masque/peel where it is allowed to penetrate the skin.

Paula’s Choice is offering 10% off all her AHA and BHA exfoliants through the month of August at her website:  Paula’sChoice.com.

Side effects can include irritation, redness and itching, and increased sensitivity to the sun.   So while using any of these treatments you should take precautions by using a good sunscreen and avoiding prolonged sun exposure.